Wrangell-St. Elias National Park: The Mountain Kingdom

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is a land defined entirely by staggering, almost incomprehensible superlatives. At 13.2 million acres (over 20,500 square miles), it is the undisputed largest national park in the United States. To put that into perspective: it is the same size as Yellowstone National Park, Yosemite National Park, and the entire country of Switzerland combined.

This single park encompasses four distinct, massive mountain ranges: the Wrangells, the St. Elias, the Chugach, and the Alaska Range. It stretches from the crashing waves of the Gulf of Alaska all the way to the high, frozen interior plateau. It contains nine of the sixteen highest peaks in the United States, culminating in the monumental Mount St. Elias, which rises an unbelievable 18,008 feet (5,489 meters) straight up from the ocean—the second highest peak in both the US and Canada. Furthermore, it protects the Bagley Icefield, the largest subpolar icefield in North America, which feeds dozens of massive, grinding glaciers.

Yet, despite this overwhelming, terrifying scale, Wrangell-St. Elias is surprisingly accessible compared to other remote Alaskan parks like Gates of the Arctic or Kobuk Valley. Two rough, historic dirt roads penetrate deep into its mountainous heart, allowing adventurous road-trippers to drive directly up to massive glaciers and one of the most fascinating ghost towns in the world.

Geological History: The Collision of Giants

The geology of Wrangell-St. Elias is violently active and incredibly complex. This is a landscape where the earth is literally being crushed, folded, and melted in real-time.

The park sits directly on the boundary where the massive Pacific Tectonic Plate is aggressively smashing into, and sliding underneath, the North American Plate. This ongoing, slow-motion collision is responsible for thrusting the towering St. Elias and Chugach mountains skyward at a rate of several millimeters a year (making them some of the fastest-growing mountains on Earth) and causing frequent, massive earthquakes.

Further inland, this subduction process causes rock deep within the earth’s mantle to melt and rise to the surface, creating the Wrangell Volcanic Field. This vast area includes Mount Wrangell (14,163 feet), a massive, heavily glaciated shield volcano that is still active today, occasionally venting steam from its summit caldera.

Above the rock, the landscape is dominated by ice. Because these immense mountains sit so close to the moisture-rich Gulf of Alaska, they capture staggering amounts of snow. Over millennia, this snow compresses into the Bagley Icefield, a continuous sheet of ice up to 3,000 feet thick and 127 miles long. This icefield acts as the frozen heart of the park, pumping out massive valley glaciers—like the Hubbard, the Nabesna, and the Root—that scour the bedrock and shape the deep valleys below.

Human History: The Kennecott Copper Bonanza

While the indigenous Ahtna, Upper Tanana, Eyak, and Tlingit peoples have lived in and around these mountains for thousands of years, the park’s modern history is dominated by a brief, explosive period of industrial capitalism.

In the summer of 1900, two prospectors exploring the rugged Kennicott Glacier valley spotted what looked like a massive patch of green grass high on a mountainside. Upon closer inspection, the “grass” turned out to be pure chalcocite—one of the richest, most concentrated deposits of copper ore ever discovered on Earth.

Extracting this ore from the heart of a frozen, roadless mountain range required an engineering miracle. With backing from J.P. Morgan and the Guggenheim family, the Kennecott Copper Corporation built a 196-mile railway (the Copper River and Northwestern Railway) through narrow, glacier-choked canyons, completing it in 1911. High on the mountainside, they constructed the Kennecott Mines, a sprawling, multi-level industrial complex.

• The Concentration Mill: The centerpiece is the iconic, 14-story red wooden concentration mill that seemingly clings to the precipitous side of Bonanza Peak. For 27 years, it roared 24/7, processing millions of tons of ore.
• The Ghost Town: In 1938, as the high-grade ore finally ran out and copper prices plummeted, the corporation simply walked away. They left the massive buildings, the heavy machinery, and even the dishes on the tables. Today, Kennecott is a National Historic Landmark. Visitors can take fascinating guided tours deep inside the cavernous, stabilized mill building to see the giant crushers, the miles of leather belts, and the sorting tables exactly as they were abandoned.

Exploring the Park: McCarthy and the Glaciers

At the end of the 60-mile McCarthy Road (built directly on top of the old railway bed) lies the quirky, off-grid settlement of McCarthy.

During the mining boom, Kennecott was a strict “company town” where alcohol and gambling were banned. Naturally, McCarthy sprang up five miles down the road as the place where the miners went to spend their paychecks in saloons and brothels. Today, it retains its wild, frontier character. Access to the town requires parking your car and walking or biking across a narrow footbridge spanning the raging, glacial Kennicott River. The town serves as the perfect basecamp, offering historic hotels, a famous saloon, and excellent guide services.

Just beyond McCarthy and Kennecott lies the incredible Root Glacier. Unlike most Alaskan glaciers which require a boat or a plane to see, you can simply hike a two-mile trail from the old mill directly to the edge of the ice. With a pair of crampons and a local guide, it is considered one of the safest and most accessible glaciers in North America for ice hiking. You can walk for miles across the undulating white surface, peer down into terrifyingly deep, sapphire-blue moulins (meltwater shafts), and listen to the thunderous roar of underground rivers rushing beneath your feet.

Top Activities and Flightseeing

Because the park is so incomprehensibly massive, the absolute best way to truly understand its scale is from the air.

• Flightseeing: Taking a small bush plane flight from McCarthy is often the highlight of any trip to Alaska. The pilots weave through narrow, jagged granite peaks, fly directly over the deeply crevassed, chaotic icefalls of the massive glaciers, and offer jaw-dropping views of the towering, snow-capped volcanoes.
• The Nabesna Road: For a completely different, quieter experience, drive the park’s second dirt road, the 42-mile Nabesna Road in the north. This route traverses high, rolling alpine tundra, offering incredible, sweeping views of the northern Wrangell volcanoes, excellent opportunities to spot grizzly bears and Dall sheep, and access to numerous rugged, unmaintained backcountry hiking routes and old gold mining claims.

Seasonal Guide: Month by Month

• May: The snow finally begins to clear from the McCarthy Road, and the town slowly wakes up. Many businesses are still closed, and the high hiking trails remain deeply buried in snow. The rivers are exceptionally low and clear before the massive summer glacial melt begins.
• June: Summer arrives. The wildflowers in the alpine tundra explode in color, and the daylight stretches to nearly 20 hours. This is an excellent time for glacier hiking and flightseeing, as the weather is often at its most stable. Expect significant mosquitoes in the brushy areas.
• July & August: The peak tourist season. McCarthy is buzzing with activity, all historic tours are running, and the backcountry is accessible. However, this is also when the rivers run highest and muddy with glacial silt, making backcountry river crossings extremely dangerous. Be prepared for sudden, intense rainstorms.
• September: A spectacularly beautiful, but brief, window. The aspen and willow trees turn brilliant gold, the mosquitoes die off, and the first snows dust the lower peaks. The road conditions can deteriorate rapidly with the autumn rains, and most businesses in McCarthy board up their windows by mid-September.
• October to April: The park enters deep winter. The McCarthy Road is not maintained and becomes a rough snowmobile track. The silence is absolute. It is a time only for self-sufficient locals and extreme winter adventurers.

Budget & Packing Tips

• Budgeting: Getting to Wrangell-St. Elias is an investment of time rather than money (unless you book a flightseeing tour, which is expensive but highly recommended). There are no entrance fees to the park. The campgrounds along the Nabesna Road are generally free. However, gas, food, and lodging in the remote outpost of McCarthy are significantly more expensive than in Anchorage due to the immense difficulty of transporting goods.
• The McCarthy Road Warning: The 60-mile drive from Chitina to McCarthy is infamous. It is a rough, washboard gravel road built on top of the old railway ties. While it has been significantly improved in recent years, old railroad spikes still occasionally surface and cause flat tires. Many standard rental car contracts strictly prohibit driving on this road. Ensure your vehicle is equipped with a full-size spare tire (preferably two) and a jack.
• Gasoline: There are no gas stations within the park boundaries or at the end of the McCarthy Road. You must fill your tank completely in the town of Chitina before embarking on the 120-mile round trip.
• Clothing: Standard Alaskan rules apply: layer heavily. Bring a high-quality waterproof jacket, warm synthetic or wool mid-layers, and sturdy hiking boots. If you plan to hike the Root Glacier, a warm hat and light gloves are recommended even in July, as the ice generates its own cold microclimate.
• Bear Safety: Wrangell-St. Elias is home to dense populations of both black bears and massive interior grizzly bears. If you are hiking away from the main Kennecott mill site, carrying bear spray, knowing how to use it, and making plenty of noise on the trail is mandatory.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Do I really need a massive 4x4 truck to drive the roads?

Not necessarily. While a high-clearance SUV or truck is strongly recommended for comfort and peace of mind, a carefully driven standard sedan can make it down the McCarthy Road during dry summer conditions. The Nabesna Road, however, involves several small stream crossings that can become impassable for low-clearance vehicles after heavy rain. Always check current road conditions at the visitor center in Copper Center before departing.

Can I actually go inside the old mine buildings?

Yes, but only on a guided tour. To protect both the incredibly fragile, historic structures and the visitors, the National Park Service has stabilized the massive 14-story mill building but restricts entry. Local guide services in McCarthy offer daily, fascinating hard-hat tours that take you deep inside the dark, echoing processing plant.

Are there any designated, paved hiking trails?

Very few. Around Kennecott, there are a few established, relatively easy trails (like the one to the Root Glacier or the steep hike up to the Bonanza Mine). However, 99% of this 13-million-acre park is trackless, untrailed wilderness requiring advanced backcountry navigation skills, map-reading ability, and comfort with difficult river crossings.

Is it crowded?

Compared to Yellowstone or even Denali, Wrangell-St. Elias feels completely empty. Because it requires a long drive from Anchorage and navigating a rough dirt road, it filters out the massive tour bus crowds. While the small town of McCarthy can feel busy on a sunny July weekend, if you hike just one mile off the main road, you will likely have millions of acres entirely to yourself.