Hohe Tauern National Park: The Austrian Giant

Hohe Tauern National Park is Austria’s first and largest national park, covering 709 square miles across three provinces — Carinthia, Salzburg, and Tyrol — making it the largest nature reserve in the entire Alpine arc. It contains Austria’s highest mountain, the Grossglockner (3,798 meters / 12,460 feet), its longest glacier, the Pasterze, and the Krimml Waterfalls, the highest free-falling waterfalls in Central Europe at 380 meters. The park protects a dramatically vertical alpine landscape ranging from deep, lush V-shaped valleys dotted with centuries-old wooden Alm huts to the stark, icy high-altitude terrain of the main Alpine ridge. It serves as a vital sanctuary for Europe’s most significant mountain wildlife populations, including golden eagles, bearded vultures, and the largest alpine ibex population in the Eastern Alps.

Geological History

The Hohe Tauern mountain range offers a unique “window” into the deep crust of the Earth, famously known among geologists as the “Tauern Window” (Tauernfenster). During the tectonic collision between the African and Eurasian plates (the Alpine orogeny), older, harder crystalline rocks — granite and gneiss — were thrust upward and forced over younger, softer sedimentary rocks. Millions of years of relentless uplift and glacial erosion then stripped away the softer top layers, exposing the ancient crystalline core of the mountains visible today on peaks like the Grossglockner. This complex geological history is also responsible for the region’s historical wealth; the Hohe Tauern was heavily mined for centuries for gold, silver, and copper, a history still visible in old, abandoned adits and in the names of local valleys like the Rauris (the “Valley of Gold”). The landscape as it appears today was primarily carved by the massive glaciers of the Pleistocene ice ages, which gouged out the deep, classic U-shaped valleys and sharp, jagged arêtes.

Wildlife & Biodiversity (The Big Five of the Alps)

Hohe Tauern is internationally recognized as one of the best places in Europe to observe the iconic “Big Five” of the Alps in their natural habitat.

• Alpine Ibex (Steinbock): Once hunted almost to extinction, they were successfully reintroduced here. These heavily horned, incredibly agile climbers are often seen in large herds navigating the sheer, high-altitude ridges with remarkable grace, particularly around the Grossglockner area.
• Chamois (Gämse): Smaller, faster, and more widespread than the ibex, these nimble mountain antelopes are frequently spotted grazing on the steep, grassy slopes just above the treeline.
• Marmot (Murmeltier): The ubiquitous, furry sentinels of the alpine meadows. Their high-pitched, piercing warning whistles echo constantly through the valleys. They are especially numerous (and surprisingly tame) around the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe visitor center.
• Golden Eagle (Steinadler): With an impressive wingspan and incredible eyesight, the golden eagle is the apex predator of the skies here. Hohe Tauern supports a very healthy breeding population; look for them soaring effortlessly on thermal currents high above the valleys hunting for marmots.
• Bearded Vulture (Bartgeier): The park’s greatest conservation triumph. With a massive wingspan of up to 2.9 meters (9.5 feet), this magnificent, rust-colored scavenger (which feeds almost exclusively on bleached bones) was completely eradicated from the Alps in the early 20th century. Following a dedicated, decades-long reintroduction program, they are now successfully breeding in the wild within the park.

Top Hikes & Attractions

• The Grossglockner High Alpine Road: Arguably one of the most famous scenic drives in the world, this toll road winds for 48 kilometers (30 miles) through the heart of the park, featuring 36 hairpin bends and climbing to 2,504 meters at the Hochtor Pass. It offers panoramic views of dozens of 3,000-meter peaks without requiring any hiking.
  • Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe: At the end of a spur road (2,369m), you are brought face-to-face with the icy pyramid of the Grossglockner. From the multi-level visitor center, you look directly down onto the massive, creeping expanse of the Pasterze Glacier.
  • Gamsgrubenweg: Starting from the visitor center, this is a spectacular, easy, and relatively flat panoramic trail literally carved into the cliff face (including several long tunnels). It offers the best sustained views of the glacier and the highest peaks.
• Krimml Waterfalls (Krimmler Wasserfälle): Located in the western (Salzburg) section of the park, the Krimml Ache river plunges 380 meters (1,247 feet) down three massive, roaring tiers. A steep but wide and well-maintained trail (taking about 1.5 to 2 hours to ascend) switchbacks up the side of the falls, with numerous designated viewing platforms. The extremely fine, aerosolized mist from the falls is scientifically proven to provide significant therapeutic relief for asthma and allergy sufferers, making it a recognized “natural healing resource.”
• Innergschlöss Valley: Often called the “most beautiful valley end in the Eastern Alps,” this remote valley in East Tyrol is a hiker’s paradise. The classic hike here is the Gletscherlehrweg (Glacier Trail), which takes you past traditional wooden huts and roaring glacial streams, directly up to the heavily crevassed snout of the Schlatenkees glacier.
• Ascending the Grossglockner: Climbing Austria’s highest peak is the ultimate alpine prize. However, it is a serious, challenging mountaineering undertaking. It requires excellent physical fitness, a head for heights, and technical gear (crampons, ice axes, ropes) to cross the heavily crevassed glaciers and navigate the exposed, rocky summit ridge. Unless you are a highly experienced alpinist, hiring a certified local mountain guide (usually based in Kals or Heiligenblut) is essential.

Seasonal Guide: Month by Month

The high Alps experience extreme seasonal variations, drastically affecting accessibility and activities.

• Summer (July - September): The peak season. This is the only time of year when all high-altitude hiking trails, mountain huts (Hütten), and the Grossglockner High Alpine Road are reliably open and free of deep snow. The alpine meadows bloom with vibrant wildflowers, and the days are generally warm and sunny, though sudden, violent afternoon thunderstorms are always a risk.
• Autumn (October - November): A brief, beautiful, but highly unpredictable transition. The larch forests turn a brilliant, fiery gold, and the air becomes incredibly crisp and clear, offering the best long-distance visibility. The first heavy snowstorms can arrive at any moment, and the Grossglockner road usually closes for the winter season in late October or early November.
• Winter (December - April): The high park enters a deep freeze and is largely inaccessible to casual visitors. The Grossglockner road is buried under meters of snow. The fringes of the park support winter sports, with high-quality ski resorts on the borders (like Kitzsteinhorn glacier skiing or the Grossglockner Resort Kals-Matrei), and the lower snow-covered valleys offering cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on undeveloped terrain.
• Spring (May - June): The massive snowmelt begins, turning the waterfalls (like Krimml) into roaring torrents of white water. The Grossglockner road is usually plowed open by giant rotary plows in early May, driving between walls of snow up to 10 meters high. High-altitude hiking remains dangerous and largely impossible due to the deep, unstable snowpack.

Budget & Packing Tips

• Access and Tolls: Entrance to the National Park itself for hiking is completely free. However, the Grossglockner High Alpine Road is a privately managed toll road, and the day pass is expensive (approximately €40 per car, slightly less for motorcycles). There is also a small entry fee to access the main maintained path alongside the Krimml Waterfalls.
• The National Park Summer Card: The best budget tip available. If you book your accommodation at one of the designated “National Park Partner” hotels, guesthouses, or farms in the region during summer, you receive the Nationalpark Sommercard free of charge. This card grants you free access to the Grossglockner toll road, free rides on numerous mountain cable cars, free public transport in the region, and free entry to museums and swimming pools.
• Clothing (Alpine Basics): You are visiting the high Alps; the weather is dictated by altitude. Even if it is 30°C (86°F) in the valley in August, it can be freezing, windy, and snowing at the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe. Pack in layers: a moisture-wicking base layer, a warm fleece, a high-quality windproof and waterproof jacket, a beanie, and gloves.
• Footwear: If you intend to leave the paved paths and walk the mountain trails, sturdy, stiff-soled hiking boots with excellent ankle support are strictly required. The trails are rocky, uneven, and often cross slippery snowfields or streams.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is driving the Grossglockner Road scary or dangerous?

The road is a marvel of alpine engineering; it is exceptionally wide (for a mountain pass), fully paved, and meticulously maintained. It is a continuous series of very steep gradients (up to 12%) and tight, dizzying hairpin bends. If you are a confident driver and your vehicle’s brakes are in good condition, it is a joy to drive. If you suffer from severe vertigo or are terrified of mountain driving, it is highly recommended to take the comfortable Postbus (public bus) that runs the route daily in the summer.

Are the glaciers really disappearing?

Tragically, yes, and at an accelerating, alarming rate. The Pasterze Glacier, the largest in the park, is arguably the most visible victim of global climate change in Austria. It has lost over half of its volume since 1856 and currently retreats by tens of meters every single year. The funicular railway that once took tourists directly down to the ice edge now drops them off hundreds of meters above the current, shrunken glacier.

Can I camp wild in the national park?

No. Wild camping (pitching a tent outside of designated areas) is strictly and completely forbidden throughout the entire Hohe Tauern National Park to protect the highly sensitive alpine flora and to avoid disturbing the wildlife (particularly during the delicate dawn and dusk hours). Use the excellent, fully equipped official campsites located in the main valleys, or sleep in the high-altitude mountain huts (Alpenvereinshütten). Bivouacking (sleeping in a bag without a tent) is only legally permitted in absolute, unforeseen emergencies.

Are dogs allowed in the park?

Yes, dogs are welcome, but there is a very strict, legally enforced leash law throughout the entire national park. This protects the abundant wildlife (marmots, chamois) from being chased or stressed, and ensures the safety of the grazing farm animals (cows and sheep) in the lower Alm areas.

What is the best way to see a Bearded Vulture?

Spotting these massive, rare birds requires patience and a good pair of binoculars. They cover immense territories daily. The best strategy is to hike high up into the remote side valleys (like the Rauris Valley or the Kalser Dorfertal), find a comfortable spot with a wide view of the sky and the high ridges, and carefully scan the thermals on clear, sunny days. The national park also offers specialized, guided “wildlife watching” tours with expert rangers.