Berchtesgaden National Park: The Alpine Wilderness
Berchtesgaden National Park (Nationalpark Berchtesgaden) is arguably the most beautiful corner of Germany. Tucked away in the southeastern tip of Bavaria, surrounded on three sides by Austria, this high-alpine wonderland remains largely untouched by human hands. It is Germany’s only national park in the Alps, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve where nature is left to its own devices according to the motto “Let nature be nature.” The landscape is dominated by the majestic Watzmann massif, the second-highest mountain in Germany, and the fjord-like Königssee, whose deep, emerald-green waters reflect the sheer rock walls that rise vertically from its shores. It is a place of notable quiet, soaring eagles, and panoramas stretching across the Berchtesgaden Alps.
Königssee: The King’s Lake
The heart of the park is the Königssee. Carved by massive glaciers during the last Ice Age, it is Germany’s deepest (190m) and cleanest lake. The water is drinking quality.
- The Electric Boats: To protect the pristine water and the silence of the valley, only quiet electric boats have been allowed on the lake since 1909. Gliding silently across the glass-like surface, surrounded by 2000-meter peaks, is an almost meditative experience.
- The Echo: About halfway to the St. Bartholomä peninsula, the boat captain stops the engine and plays a trumpet or flugelhorn. The echo bouncing off the steep rock face of the Echo Wall (Echowand) is crystal clear and returns up to seven times. It is world-famous.
- St. Bartholomä: This pilgrimage church, with its distinctive red onion domes and white walls, sits at the water’s edge, backed by the formidable East Face of the Watzmann. It dates back to the 12th century and is accessible only by boat or a long, difficult hike over the mountains.
- Obersee: At the far end of the lake (Salet stop), a short and scenic hike leads to the Obersee, a smaller, secluded lake separated from Königssee by a terminal moraine. The reflection here is mirror-perfect. At the far end of Obersee plunges the Röthbachfall, Germany’s highest waterfall, dropping 470 meters down a vertical cliff face.
The Watzmann: Germany’s Mountain of Destiny
Rising 2,713 meters (8,900 feet) above sea level, the Watzmann is the central figure of the Berchtesgaden Alps.
- The Legend: Local folklore says the mountain is a cruel king (Watzmann) who was turned to stone by God as punishment for his wickedness towards peasants, along with his wife (the second peak) and seven children (the smaller peaks in between).
- The East Face: The “Watzmann-Ostwand” is the highest vertical rock face in the Eastern Alps (1,800m). It is a legendary challenge for mountaineers and has claimed many lives, earning it the nickname “Mountain of Destiny.”
- Hocheck: Hikers can reach the first summit, the Hocheck, via a demanding trail from the Watzmannhaus hut. The “Watzmann Traverse” across the three peaks is a classic alpine ridge route for experienced climbers.
Hiking Opportunities
The park offers endless hiking opportunities for all levels.
- Wimbachklamm: A stunning gorge at the entrance to the Wimbach Valley, where waterfalls cascade down mossy walls into a turquoise river. Wooden walkways allow you to walk just above the rushing water.
- The Stone Sea (Steinernes Meer): A high karst plateau that looks like a petrified ocean wave frozen in stone. It straddles the border with Austria and is a stark, grey wilderness dotted with sinkholes and fossils.
- Bindalm & Litzlalm: Traditional alpine pastures where cows graze in summer. Hikers can stop for fresh milk and cheese with a view, supporting the traditional agricultural practices that maintain the biodiversity of the meadows.
Eagles and Marmots
The park is a sanctuary for alpine wildlife.
- Golden Eagles: Often seen soaring on thermals above the Klausbachtal valley (known as the “Valley of the Eagles”). A dedicated eagle watching station offers information.
- Alpine Marmots: These chubby ground squirrels are common in the rocky meadows above the tree line. Their piercing whistles warn the colony of approaching hikers or birds of prey.
- Ibex and Chamois: Look for these sure-footed wild goats on the steep crags and rocky slopes. The ibex was reintroduced in the 1930s after being hunted to extinction.
The Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus)
Though historically infamous as a tea house built for Adolf Hitler for his 50th birthday, the Eagle’s Nest sits on a precipice overlooking the park. It is not in the national park, but visiting it offers a staggering view of the Watzmann and the Königssee below. It is now a restaurant and historical site, accessible by a brass-lined elevator cut into the mountain.
Practical Information
- Getting There: Berchtesgaden is easily reached by train from Munich or Salzburg (Austria). The park entrance is a short bus ride away. The “Jennerbahn” cable car offers an easy way to get high up for views over the lake.
- Berchtesgaden Guest Card: Staying overnight in the region gives you a guest card for free local bus travel.
- Seasons:
- Summer: Lush green, cow bells, busy boats. Ideal for all hiking.
- Winter: The boats run only to St. Bartholomä (if the lake isn’t frozen). Deer feeding stations are set up in the Klausbachtal, offering a chance to see large herds of red deer up close.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I swim in Königssee?
Yes, the water is incredibly clean, but it is very cold even in summer! Most people just dip their feet, but brave swimmers do take the plunge near the Malerwinkel.
Is the boat ride expensive?
It costs around €20-25 for a round trip to Salet. It is worth every penny for the views and the silence. Book online in advance to skip the queue.
Are there bears?
No. Brown bears are extinct in Germany. The largest predator is the lynx, which is very reclusive, and a few wolves pass through occasionally.
Can I fly a drone?
No. Drones are strictly prohibited in the National Park to protect wildlife (especially the eagles) and the tranquility of other visitors.
Is it suitable for kids?
Yes! The boat ride, the easy walk to the Malerwinkel viewpoint, and the exciting wooden walkways of the Wimbachklamm gorge are perfect for families.