Bavarian Forest National Park: Germany's First

Bavarian Forest National Park (Nationalpark Bayerischer Wald) holds a deeply significant place in European conservation history. Established in 1970, it was the very first national park created in Germany. Located in the remote, rugged eastern edge of Bavaria, right up against the Czech border, it forms a massive, unbroken, cross-border wilderness when combined with the neighboring Šumava National Park in the Czech Republic. Together, this vast expanse of deep, dark woods is often referred to as the “Green Roof of Europe.”

However, the Bavarian Forest is famous—and historically highly controversial—not just for its size, but for its radical, uncompromising philosophy: “Natur Natur sein lassen” (Let nature be nature).

In a country with a centuries-old tradition of meticulous, highly organized, and manicured commercial forestry, this park represents a profound, initially shocking experiment in complete non-intervention. It is a place where catastrophic natural events were allowed to run their full, destructive course, completely transforming the landscape from a dark, silent spruce plantation into a vibrant, chaotic, and incredibly biodiverse primeval jungle.

The Bark Beetle Controversy and the “Dead Forest”

To truly understand the Bavarian Forest National Park today, you must understand the massive ecological upheaval that defined its recent history.

For generations before the park was established, the lower and middle elevations of these mountains were heavily logged and replanted almost exclusively with fast-growing Norway spruce, creating dense, uniform, and unnatural monocultures designed purely for timber production.

In the mid-1980s and especially following a massive, devastating windstorm in 1990, disaster struck these artificial forests. The downed, weakened spruce trees provided the perfect breeding ground for the Eurasian spruce bark beetle (Ips typographus). A localized outbreak rapidly exploded into a massive, unstoppable epidemic.

In a normal German managed forest, the infected trees would have been immediately aggressively clear-cut, removed, and sold to stop the spread. However, the national park authority made a radical, highly controversial decision: they did nothing. They stuck rigidly to their philosophy of non-intervention.

The result was visually catastrophic. The bark beetles swept through the park, killing over 6,000 hectares (nearly 15,000 acres) of mature spruce trees. Entire mountainsides, particularly around the iconic peaks of Lusen and Rachel, turned a stark, sickly grey as millions of trees died while still standing. Local residents and traditional foresters were outraged, calling it an ecological disaster and a disgrace.

The Rebirth of a Primeval Jungle

Decades later, the decision to “let nature be nature” has been spectacularly vindicated. The “dead forest” was actually the catalyst for an incredible ecological rebirth.

• The Power of Dead Wood: The millions of standing and fallen dead spruce trunks—which would have been removed in a commercial forest—became the foundation of a new ecosystem. As the wood slowly rots, it acts like a giant sponge, retaining moisture and providing essential habitat for thousands of highly specialized, rare species of fungi, mosses, and xylophagous (wood-eating) insects.
• The New Canopy: Because the dense, dark canopy of the mature spruce trees was removed, sunlight finally poured onto the forest floor. The ground virtually exploded with new life. Today, when you hike through the stark, silver, ghostly trunks of the dead spruce, you are actually walking through a dense, vibrant, incredibly diverse young jungle of native rowan, beech, sycamore, and naturally regenerating, healthy spruce saplings.
• A Resilient Ecosystem: This new, chaotic, multi-layered, mixed-species forest is infinitely more resilient to future storms, pests, and climate change than the uniform spruce plantations it replaced. It is a powerful, visible lesson in the chaotic, self-healing power of nature on a grand scale.

Wildlife and Biodiversity: The Return of the Predators

The vast, continuous, and increasingly wild habitat of the Bavarian-Šumava forest complex provides a crucial refuge for some of Europe’s rarest and most elusive species.

• The Lynx: The Eurasian lynx, the largest wild cat in Europe, was hunted to total extinction in the region by the mid-19th century. Following a highly successful reintroduction program in the 1980s, a small, stable, and strictly protected population now thrives in the deep cover of the regenerating forest. While they are the undisputed ghosts of the park, their tracks are occasionally seen in the winter snow.
• The Wolf: Even more symbolically powerful than the lynx, the gray wolf has begun to naturally, slowly recolonize the Bavarian Forest after a century-long absence, crossing the border from the Czech Republic. While sightings are incredibly rare, their presence signals the return of a truly wild, intact ecosystem.
• The Capercaillie: The park is one of the last remaining strongholds in Central Europe for the spectacular western capercaillie (wood grouse). These massive, ancient-looking birds require very specific, undisturbed old-growth forest habitats with abundant blueberry bushes (which exploded in the sunny clearings left by the bark beetles).

Top Hikes and the Treetop Walk

The park is exceptionally well-managed for visitors, offering hundreds of kilometers of meticulously marked hiking and cycling trails that range from accessible boardwalks to strenuous mountain ascents.

1. The Treetop Walk (Baumwipfelpfad): Located near the National Park Center Lusen in Neuschönau, this is arguably the park’s most famous and popular attraction. It is a spectacular, 1.3-kilometer (0.8-mile) elevated wooden boardwalk that gradually winds its way up directly through the canopy of the mixed beech, fir, and spruce forest. The path is wheelchair and stroller accessible (maximum gradient of 6%) and culminates in a massive, egg-shaped wooden observation tower that spirals 44 meters (144 feet) into the sky. From the top, you get a stunning, 360-degree panoramic view over the endless “sea of trees” and, on clear days, all the way to the snow-capped Alps.
2. The Animal Enclosures (Tierfreigelände): Because seeing a wild lynx or wolf in the dense, 93-square-mile jungle is highly unlikely, the park operates two massive, open-air animal enclosure zones (near Neuschönau and Ludwigsthal). These are not typical, cramped zoos. They are huge, multi-hectare tracts of natural, fenced-in forest where visitors can walk along elevated paths and safely observe the region’s native (and formerly native) species—including packs of wolves, lynx, brown bears, European bison (wisent), wild boar, and red deer—living in expansive, semi-wild conditions. A full loop takes 3-4 hours to walk.
3. Hiking Lusen: The hike to the summit of Mount Lusen (1,373 meters / 4,504 feet) is a classic Bavarian Forest experience. The trail famously leads you directly through the heart of the “dead wood” forest, offering the starkest, most dramatic views of the silver, skeletal spruce trunks contrasting with the vibrant green undergrowth. The summit itself is a striking geological oddity: it is completely treeless and entirely covered by a massive, chaotic “sea of rocks” (a blockfield created by intense frost shattering during the last Ice Age).

Seasonal Guide: Month by Month

• May & June: Spring arrives late in the low mountains (Mittelgebirge). The snow finally melts from the higher peaks like Lusen and Rachel, and the deciduous beech trees in the lower valleys burst into incredibly vibrant, light-green foliage. The hiking trails are quiet, and the birdlife is incredibly active.
• July & August: The peak summer season. The park is busy, especially around the Treetop Walk and the Animal Enclosures. The weather is generally warm and pleasant, though sudden, heavy thunderstorms are common in the afternoons. The dense forest canopy provides excellent, cool shade for long hikes.
• September & October: Often considered the most beautiful time to visit. The air becomes crisp, clear, and stable, offering the best long-distance views from the observation towers. The mixed forests erupt in spectacular autumn colors (yellow birches, copper beeches), and the tourist crowds thin out significantly.
• November to April: The Bavarian Forest transforms into a deeply silent, snow-heavy winter wonderland. The region reliably receives massive amounts of snow. While high-altitude hiking becomes impossible, the park maintains an extensive, well-maintained network of groomed cross-country skiing trails (Loipen) and designated, marked snowshoeing routes through the winter forest. The Treetop Walk and the Animal Enclosures remain open year-round, offering a magical, snowy perspective.

Budget & Packing Tips

• Budgeting: The Bavarian Forest is highly affordable. Entrance to the national park itself, all hiking trails, and both of the massive Animal Enclosure zones (Tierfreigelände) is completely free. You only pay for parking (which is very cheap) and a moderate admission ticket if you choose to walk the Treetop Walk (Baumwipfelpfad).
• Transportation (The GUTi Card): If you stay overnight in one of the many participating guest houses, hotels, or holiday apartments in the national park region, you automatically receive the GUTi Guest Card. This card grants you free, unlimited travel on the excellent local Waldbahn (forest railway) and the extensive network of “Igelbus” (hedgehog bus) lines that efficiently connect all the major towns, trailheads, and visitor centers. It is an incredibly eco-friendly and budget-friendly way to explore without a car.
• Clothing: The weather in these low mountains changes rapidly. Even in high summer, a warm fleece and a reliable, waterproof rain jacket are essential in your daypack. The dense forest can be surprisingly cool and damp even when the sun is shining outside the park. Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with good ankle support are highly recommended for the rocky, uneven trails leading up to Lusen and Rachel.
• Dining: There are no commercial restaurants deep within the park’s core wilderness zones. However, there are excellent, traditional Bavarian forest inns (Waldgaststätten) located near the main parking areas, visitor centers, and just outside the park boundaries. Expect incredibly hearty, inexpensive, filling meals: massive plates of roast pork (Schweinebraten) with huge potato dumplings (Knödel), rich mushroom stews, and excellent, locally brewed Bavarian beer.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Are there wild brown bears in the forest?

No. While you can see them living in the massive, natural enclosures (Tierfreigelände), there are currently no wild brown bears permanently residing in Germany. The last wild bear in Germany was infamously shot in Bavaria in 2006 (after wandering across the border from Austria/Italy). However, as wolf and lynx populations slowly recover across Europe, the eventual natural return of the brown bear to this massive, cross-border wilderness is a long-term conservation hope.

Is the “dead forest” actually dead?

No — this is the biggest misconception about the park. While the mature spruce trees were killed by the bark beetles in the 1990s, the forest itself is incredibly alive. In fact, ecologically speaking, the current, chaotic, mixed-species, regenerating jungle full of rotting dead wood is vastly more “alive” and biodiverse than the dark, silent, commercially managed spruce plantations that preceded it.

Can I ride my mountain bike everywhere?

No. While the park maintains a fantastic, extensive (over 200 kilometers) network of designated, well-marked cycling paths (mostly wide, gravel forestry roads), bicycles are strictly prohibited on many of the narrower, sensitive, or steep hiking trails (like the ascents to Lusen or Rachel) to prevent severe erosion and conflicts with hikers. Always check the official park map before riding.

Is the park difficult to hike?

It depends entirely on the trail. The Bavarian Forest is a Mittelgebirge (a low mountain range). It is not the Alps. You will not find sheer, vertical cliffs or massive glaciers. The trails in the lower valleys, around the visitor centers, and through the animal enclosures are wide, relatively flat, and very easy. However, the hikes up to the main summits (Lusen at 1,373m and Großer Rachel at 1,453m) involve significant, sustained elevation gain and rocky, uneven terrain that requires a moderate level of fitness.

Can I camp anywhere in the park?

No. Wild camping, bivouacking, and lighting fires are strictly, heavily prohibited everywhere within the national park boundaries to protect the sensitive wildlife (particularly the capercaillie) and the recovering forest. There are numerous official, excellent private campgrounds and RV parks located just outside the park borders in the surrounding national park holiday region.